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Kumara Planting Time

It’s kumara planting time again and it’s not too late to order. It does need to be planted soon though so get your order in quickly if you don’t want to miss out! We’re busy packaging and sending out kumara tupu each week and orders can still be placed via the website

Kumara are sent out as tupu – small rooted plants grown in a tāpapa bed. As they are sent out as live plants we take great care with them – they are bundled and labelled, the ends are wrapped in damp newspaper and then a bio degradable plastic bag and then they are boxed and posted out.

Although we’re starting to plant our kumara now the fantastic thing is that we are still eating last year’s harvest. When we started growing kumara it felt like a bit of a luxury crop but now its become one of our major staples. It’s easy to grow, stores and keeps well, and, as we grow lots of different varieties, we have different colours and textures to enjoy. We end up eating it most days at this time of year but can vary things by roasting it, boiling it, mashing it or even stir frying it.

If you’d like to read more about how the kumara is grown there is an article here to help you out

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Regenerative Urban Farm Overview – March 2016

Urban Farming is really taking off all around the world right now! This is an overview of some of the systems in our Urban Farm Research Project here at Koanga. If you’re keen to learn more, we have two workshops you can attend this year, one in Wellington on Queen’s Birthday Weekend, and one just out of Wairoa in early November.

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April Update, 2015


April has been a tough gardeners month here at Kotare Village. We had our first frost in March and then in mid April had several killers. Even our winter brassicas and many other winter veges were set back seriously. I’ve been away as well so I’m behind with getting my garden all put down for the winter. Today we finished taking out all of the corn stalks, that is a mission because I grow Bloody Butcher corn especially for the carbon the stalks sequester. It is the tallest corn I know and the stalks contain high levels of lignins as well so ensure I have high quality ingredients for my compost heaps. I made a compost heap today that was 1.6 m wide, a round heap, and 1.5m high. Because I made the heap with a 60:1 carbon nitrogen ratio so that should give me a high return of high quality humus. I should get over 1 cubic metre of high quality humus, enough to put 1cm on 100 sq m of garden bed. I t looks as though I have enough material to make another heap the same size so that will just give me enough compost in Spring to compost the entire area at 1cm. As my soil gets better and better the beds will produce more carbon and I will be able to make more compost, which means I’ll be able to put more on. How well we grow our compost crops is a key factor in being able to grow soil and nutrient dense food. Getting maximum weight of carbon from our carbon crops is quite a challenge, and Leòn my Garden Apprentice has a just been down to visit Jodi, an ex apprentice of mine from many years ago, to see how he is practicing Biointensive growing in Taranaki. Jodi went to study with John Jeavons during his apprenticeship with Koanga in Kaiwaka, and he has been back there several times now. (Jodi is teaching our 3 day Bio- Intensive workshop here in September) Leòn has come back with some great ideas so I’m going to write that up as a carbon crop article in the next newsletter. By then we will have followed Jodi’s instructions on many of our own beds.


As well as having the satisfaction of having made a beautiful compost heap this morning I also had an afternoon of processing seeds that are for eating. I shucked 50 kgs of Bloody Butcher Corn off the cobs for storing. This is the corn we still have left from last years crop which has turned out to have produced 1.2 kgs of dry corn er sq m of garden bed. This corn was left on its cobs because that is supposed to be the easiest way to store it that keeps the weevils out. There were absolutely no weevils after 1 year of storage on the cobs in onions sacks hanging up, but once the mice found it (recently) the weevils got into it. That’s why I shucked it to store in barrels after having frozen it to kill the weevils. I will try using diatomaceous earth in 1 barrel to see how that works.

We make our cakes out of flour corn, and we make tortillas and posole from the corn as well. We are buying no food at the supermarket so flour corn and nut flour are our only sources of flour for baking etc,

I also cleaned all of my dry beans for winter soups and beans dishes, as well as that I cleaned our hulless barley. My most productive dry beans this year were our Dalmatian Peans. I ended up with over 1 kg per sq m. I put 1 ti pee per sq m.


I took my Austrian hullless pumpkin seeds from the solar drier and stored them away, together with the Essene flaxseed that will make our biscuits (click here essene bread recipe), and after all of that I fermented a crock of Jalapeno peppers, and didn’t quite get to making my favourite winter ferment .. grated beetroot, daikonCarrots, with a little garlic and onion thrown in. Must be tomorrows job !

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Fertiliser Recipe’s at the end of this post! Keep Reading…

This journey of learning to grow nutrient dense food we’re on has been partly possible for us through the mentorship of Grant at Environmental Fertilisers.

Grant already had a background working with mainstream fertiliser before becoming disillusioned and researching other options. He attended all of Ardern Anderson’s early workshops in NZ and has since been a student of many others following the principles of Dr Carey Reams.

Grant is a driven scientist who will go to any lengths to do the best job possible, to support farmers on a large scale, regenerate the land and produce healthy food for people. He is doing incredible work and getting amazing results.

I learned to grow nutrient dense food using Grant’s fertiliser mixes, and initially was very reluctant to promote them because we’d always had a policy of not doing that.

I trialled several other companies fertiliser over the past years however and came to the clear conclusion that Environmental Fertilisers mixes are the absolute best I have ever found if you are on this journey of seriously learning to grow nutrient dense food., and it became difficult for me to talk bout how to grow nutrient dense food with out being able to recommend fertiliser, as that is the only fast way to do it I know of.

I decided a few years ago to not only recommend their fertiliser but also sell it which meant bringing ½ ton bags here repacking it and couriering around NZ. That was very successful but now that Grant is repacking into Home Gardener size bags it is not sensible for us to do it any more.

We’ve been working hard to find a shape that meant we had our research sponsored because it all takes time and money, and Grant at EF has offered to give Koanga a % of the retail price for all the fertilser sales they make that come through us.

This could be critical for us in terms of allowing us to continue this work. EF products can now be purchased online. If you take the time to go through the other process of calling or e-mailing EF with your order directly and mention Koanga, then Koanga will benefit.

We’re hoping that you will all support us here and get your friends to do so as well.

Our soils are in far worse condition than most of us realize, and in a home garden situation where many of us may even have toxic soils , we are faced with needing expert advice and support.

Environmental Fertilisers offer:

  1. The only Reams soil tests available in NZ
  2. Way the best range of fertiliser suitable for actually growing soil health and plant health I know of
  3. An advisory service that is really useful for home gardeners

All of this costs, but the costs are very reasonable and the returns are huge.  What is the real cost of degeneration of the earth soil, our food and our health. When you spend the money and get the minerals right production and brix go up exponentially over time.

When you step into this journey you see that most other readily available fertilisers actually makes things worse in the medium long term, giving short term results that are not nutrient dense, you can test this with a refractometer. Check it out for yourself!! Actually food grown with soluble nitrogen, rather than calcium and phosphorous, is low level carcinogenic as nitrates concentrate in the food, and do not carry other minerals into the photosynthesis process.

We must begin with the earth.

If you’re into learning to grow nutrient dense food, and are keen to buy fertiliser designed to support that process then please mention Koanga when purchasing, it will help us help you and many others re enter the process of co evolution that is essential for a vibrant regenerative future.

Environmetal Fertilisers Website listing products available to home gardeners

EF Purchasing Details
Phone number to order: (07) 867-6737 or 0800 867-6737
To order by e-mail: you need to do this through the contact section on their website
To BuyNow: through click here through to TradeMe 

REMEMBER TO MENTION OUR KOANGA WHEN YOU ORDER, we really appreciate you’re support!


Recipe (excerpt from Koanga Garden Guide)

Kay’s Optimal Recipe… this fertiliser program will get you producing nutrient dense food fast. The production and quality of your crops will far more than pay for the time and cost beginning in the garden

1. Grow your own seedlings following Koanga’s best practice (page 152) and using Koanga Seedling Inoculant… this will prepare your seedlings to be able to fully utilise the nutrients far more effectively.

2. Apply 400gms EF: Nature’s Garden when planting by incorporating it into the top 10cm, before planting.

3. After planting, water in with EF: Fish Plus (this liquid fish has the nitrogen held by carbon so it will not be as water soluble as other forms of liquid fish).

4. Alternate weekly soil drenches of EF: Fish Plus with EF: CalPhos and EF: Activated Carbon for the first 4 weeks of plant growth.

5. Foliar feed EF :Growth Foliar weekly for first 6 weeks then switch to EF: Fruit Foliar unless it is a leafy green, garlic or onions. In that case continue with weekly EF: Growth Foliar.

6. I would also add biochar if I was making it at home, at a rate if 1kg per square metre every year for a few years, after first charging it with a balanced fertilser perhaps urine or high quality, organic cow manure or EF: Nature’s Garden.

7. I would also add paramagnetic rock dust if I had the opportunity (Environmental Fertilisers sell it), it makes a huge difference to speeding up the process to get to high brix crops.

8. If I had very sandy or pumice soils I would also add clay and if I had heavy clay I would also add sand.

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Appropriate Technology – Ram pumps for low head applications


About the author Tim Barker

Tim has come a long way since his days as a diesel fitter mechanic and now spends his time between Australia and New Zealand as a semi professional pyromaniac and mad scientist teaching people how to burns stuff and make really cool machines and devices for low carbon living. He currently teaches Appropriate technology for the Koanga institute in New Zealand and Eternity Springs farm in Australia.  His rocket stove and char making powered hot water systems, ovens and cookers reflect his passion for elegant simple and durable combustion technologies, other projects include gravity powered water pumps, solar thermal cookers and dryers , Pedal powered washing machines, cargo bikes, hovercraft, wooden boats and aquaponics. Upcoming courses that Tim will be teaching are  a rocket hot water system and  oven workshop for VEG (very edible gardens) in Melbourne on the 26-27 April at Darren Doherty’s farm. A PDC for the Living in peace project in Karamea on the south Island in New Zealand from the 5th-19th May and  another PDC and appropriate technology workshop at Eternity Springs farm 17-30th of August. Early next year he will also be delivering his usual hands on appropriate technology workshop and internship for his home away from home in NZ the Koanga Institute.

People are always fascinated by ram pumps. I think partly because they achieve the seemingly impossible task of pumping water to a higher height than the water supplying the pump and they do it for no added energy input. This is often misunderstood as needing no energy but even a casual understanding of the laws of thermodynamics tells us this is impossible. You will notice I said no added energy input because fundamentally what a ram pump does is harvest the energy of a lot of water flowing through the pump from a low head source, to pump a much smaller volume of water to a higher head. Head being the height of the water relative to the pump.


Imagine if you will a pipe with an internal diameter of 100mm with water flowing through it. If the pipe is around 25m long then the weight of the water in the pipe is close to 200kg remembering that one liter of water weighs 1kg. This is basically one of those large oil drums full of water.

EmGv66Water is basically incompressible, meaning that you can’t fit more water into a container by cramming it in under pressure than you can just by pouring it in. So lets imagine 200L of water in an oil drum free falling under the influence of gravity. Next, lets imagine it hitting a concrete floor. For one thing the stop would be sudden and the force and the noise would be great. This is exactly what a ram pump does, the water falls through the pump gaining velocity until that velocity is sufficient to flip the waste valve shut. Suddenly you have a lot of water, which was an instant before travelling at quite a speed, stopping instantly. As you can imagine with nowhere to go (like the concrete floor in our example) we have a lot of energy to dissipate.

By putting a one way vale in a much smaller line coming off the main pipe we can use the energy in the main flow of water like a battering ram to punch the water past the one way valve and up the smaller pipe.

The energy of the sudden stop starts to dissipate as more water is pushed up the small pipe. Eventually the energy is exhausted, the water flow stops and at this point the one way valve shuts, trapping water in the smaller supply pipe waiting for the next hammer blow of our watery battering ram. At this point the water in the main (drive pipe) is totally stopped and even starts to “bounce” back just a little from the shock wave of the initial “hit”.

It is this reversal of flow which creates a small negative pressure in the pump that allows the waste or Clack valve to drop open via gravity and start the process all over again.Now I want to go back to the point in the cycle where the water is pushing past the one way valve and go into a little more detail, as I have, for the sake of clarity, left out a vital component of the system.

Attached to the outlet side of the one way valve and branching off the delivery line we have a tank with air trapped in it. This tank’s job is to act as a shock absorber and smooth out the pressure spike of the ram. Without this tank the pressure spike can be so great it will impact on the service life of the pump. After the one way valve is shut the pressurized air in the tank re-expands and continues to push water up the delivery pipe greatly increasing the efficiency of the pump. Those tempted to do without the air tank be warned. Just to see what would happen  ran a 100mm diameter ram with only 1m fall and a lift of 3m and managed to tear a 50mm check valve to bits. Now the valve was a good quality glass reinforced plastic one rated to over 100psi. While I should have been mortified at the destruction of the valve, I couldn’t help but feel an evil glee at the clear demonstration of the forces involved.

This short animation on Youtube will help make things a little clearer.

If ram pumps have a downside, the one that most often comes to mind is the need for a certain amount of fall under which they wont operate. Depending on size and other factors minimum fall is between 500mm and 1000mm. We also need to realize that when it comes to energy there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch, so how much fall we have directly effects how high we can pump. Typically most commercial rams are quoted as being capable of lifting water ten times the fall so 1m of fall will give you 10m of lift. It also stands to reason that the higher we pump the less we will pump as we are having to use more energy simply overcoming the  greater weight of water in the delivery pipe.

Recently I was presented with a challenging site where the creek the client wanted to pump from had a maximum fall of 1m and the height we needed to lift the water simply to get out of the creek gully was 20m. From the numbers given earlier, the upper range we could hope to pump to with a 1m fall is 10m so it usually wouldn’t have been deemed possible. Add in the factor that I was hoping to build the ram pump myself and that performance figures for other homemade rams were generally given to be  in the region of 5m lift per metre of fall and the task looked all but impossible. The icing on the cake was that the creek was prone to flash flooding and to get any fall at all the pump would have to sit directly in the creek bed right in the way of logs and such when it flooded.

It didn’t look good till I hit on the idea of staging two pumps to get us up and out of the gully.

The idea goes something like this, first we use our low fall (1m) to run a large ram pump and pump to a low delivery head (5m) and then let it fall through a smaller ram pump from the height of 5m back to the creek. This effectively gives us a small pump running with a fall of 5m, which even on the lower end of the drive to head ratio (5:1) gives us enough to get up and out of the gully

Luckily I even had a small pump I had built previously and tested, that I knew would do the job with the given fall. Perfect.

All that had to be done then, was work out the volume of water required to run the small pump and then build a bigger pump to supply that volume with a little spare capacity. After a lot of research and some mid range number crunching (not one of my strengths) I came up with a pumped sized to use a 100mm drive pipe. My target was 40 liters a minute delivered to 5m above the creek.


In the photo above you can see the pump design I came up with. Ram pump size designation normally comes from the diameter of the drive pipe in this case 100mm. Going from left to right we can see where the 100mm drive pipe attaches then the main body of the pump (big steel box) and then the waste valve (square opening) on the right.

An important design consideration is that we want the water to gain the greatest velocity we can as, the faster the water, the more energy. This is especially important when we have very low falls as we have less energy to start with so an important consideration is a straight flow path from the drive pipe inlet to the waste valve outlet. 90 degree turns and such will rob energy. Also we want the waste valve outlet to be at least as big as the pump inlet (remember we want maximum flow for maximum energy). To do this I worked out the cross sectional surface area of a 100mm pipe(78.5cm2) and then cut the waste valve hole to be slightly bigger 100mm x 100mm (100cm2). I did this before actually getting the pipe and because we were using scrap when it turned up it was actually 112mm internal diameter which is 113cm2 cross sectional surface area. Unable to resist getting the absolute best out of the pump I remade the waste valve and opening larger, so that once again it was larger than the inlet, so no flow restriction.

Again under the theme of getting the most energy, a waste valve that shuts early won’t allow the water to gain the greatest velocity, and as we already know, we have limited energy to start with, so anything that interferes with that is a big no-no. To that end we need a waste valve we can tune so that it closes just as the water is gaining it’s maximum velocity.  Anything less is wasted energy.


It’s a bit hard to see in the photo, but our waste valve is a heavy steel flap hinged at the bottom so it lays back into the oncoming flow of water. You can see the row of four small shiny bolts in the square waste valve opening -these attach the valve plate to a stainless steel door hinge. The valve drops open under gravity because the plate it is bolted onto is angled back. The adjusting bolt simply passes through the center of the valve plate(single big bolt in the square opening) and can be adjusted so the angle the water passes over the valve plate can be adjusted. We’ve all stuck our hands out a car window and made those wavelike motions up and down and you will have noticed its easy to keep you hand horizontal to the air flow but the instant you angle up or down a larger force flips you hand up or down rapidly, this is exactly what happens with our valve.

Of equal importance to all I’ve written about so far is the need to use rigid materials for the drive pipe and the pump body. The reason these pumps work at all is to a large degree due to the incompressibility of water. So imagine our 200L liter barrel falling towards the floor except this time its a large tractor tube filled with water. For a start we will get more of a splat than a crash, and there wont be any chipped concrete, that’s for sure, and that’s because the energy of the falling water is, to a great degree, dissipated by the elasticity of the rubber tube. So it is with our drive pipe and pump body. If we make them out of materials that have some “give” in them, then we are wasting energy by flexing those materials. You will see lots of ram pumps on the internet using plastic parts for the drive pipe and the pump bodies and these certainly work well if we are in a situation where we have enough energy that we can waste a fair bit of it . Ultimately however, if we are talking maximum efficiency, then rigid materials like steel are best. In the end it comes down to what you need and what it costs. For us we needed steel because of our low head and also for durability as this thing will, over the course of its life, have whole trees coming down stream and smashing into it, so plastic pipe just doesn’t cut it.

Most of the designs you will see on the internet tend not to be designed to sit right in the stream bed and certainly most aren’t designed to have logs and boulders crashing into them. They tend to have air tanks that stick straight up from the pump-body so they can trap air in the top of the chamber to act as a shock absorber, generally with a device called a snifter valve that lets a tiny gulp of air into the chamber each time the pump cycles. This is so air under pressure isn’t gradually dissolved into the water in the pump (just like CO2 into a bottle of soft drink) . This would then make the pump act like it had no air chamber with the result of lower performance and far greater stress on the pump parts.  Anyway, as you can imagine, in a flood, air chambers that stick up will tend to get damaged far more easily than ones that lie flat -so we designed ours to lie flat. This required that instead of a snifter valve, we trap air in the chamber using a different method, because for one: a snifter valve doesn’t work well with a low air chamber. Secondly, our pump is sitting right at water level so the minute the water level rises and the snifter valve goes under, the air chamber will fill with water and the pump stop. We got around this simply by filling a car tube with air and stuffing it in our air chamber so the air was trapped in the car tube and couldn’t dissolve away with the result that the pump will continue to run under water as long as we still have sufficient fall.


The air tank in the photo is salvaged from an old LPG vehicle tank, and before you ask, the fitting on top of the tank is just the original from when it was in a car and is retained purely to seal the tank. You can also see water starting to build up velocity as it exits the waste valve.Another important factor in getting the most out of a ram pump is the length of the drive pipe -too short and you don’t get enough mass going . Think of it like this: you have two battering rams, one is a power pole and the other is a pool cue. Both are made out of wood but we know which one will bash down a door. So you need the biggest reasonable mass of water you can. I say reasonable because over a certain length and you will actually start to lose performance again. It’s a Goldilocks thing, not too big, not too small, but just right. This has to do with the interactions of the various shock waves travelling up and down the pipe and certainly is not something I’m going to go into great detail. Luckily we have a rule of thumb calculation we can use to come to the correct lengths. Take the internal diameter of the drive pipe and multiply it by 150 and that will give you your minimum length. Next take the internal diameter of the pipe and this time multiply it by 1000 which gives you your maximum length. Now, if you have a longer drive pipe run because of site conditions don’t fret.  You put a stand pipe which is simply a pipe coming vertically off the drive pipe. If we do this towards the effective maximum length of the drive pipe as you’ve calculated it, then this will allow the pressure waves to dissipate and the pump retain its maximum efficiency.

Lets recap regarding factors effecting efficiency

Fall. Get the maximum fall of water into the pump, at 1m we’re right at the bottom of what is considered viable. In fact for 100mm ram pumps, generally 1.5m is considered the minimum viable fall.

Rigidity. The pump body is vastly overbuilt because the scrap steel we had was very thick (12mm) so is very rigid. However, other factors can effect rigidity. Any leaks in the drive pipe and the material the drive pipe is made of . Here we had some issues. Firstly the gasket material for fitting between our lengths of drive pipe was salvaged conveyer belt and was too hard and didn’t seal properly. Also after our initial run the pressure spike in the drive pipe found some internal weak points where the pipe must have been nearly rusted through. every time the waste vale shut we had water from various leaks shooting skyward. We have better gasket material ready for instillation and our local scrap guy has his eye out for some replacement pipe.

Tuning. We have adjusted the long bolt so the water builds to nearly maximum velocity before shutting. A simple test is to observe how far the water is gushing out the waste vale with the valve held fully open with a stick, this is our maximum velocity. Next observe how far the water gushes out when the pumps running. If its substantially less than when the waste valve is held open then adjust till it’s nearly as much. Too much though and it won’t shut reliably. A word of caution, don’t hold the waste valve open with you finger, here we can go back to my original analogy and imagine what would happen if your finger was caught between a falling  200kg drum of water and a concrete floor. Ouch!

Drive pipe length. Here we’re actually under our minimum length and as already mentioned the pipe is leaking so definitely sub optimal. Waiting on our scrap guy!

Pressure/Air tank. Here we’re good. Best practice is to size the tank to 50 times the pumped volume of one cycle of the pump, which, for this size pump, is around one litre. The tank is about 60L, so all good.

I suppose the next question is how did it go, considering our target of 40LPM and a few suboptimal factors.

As I stated at the start, due to boyish enthusiasm we fired it up prior to finishing the air tank and destroyed the check valve, so we knew we had harnessed some substantial energy. Or should I say we hadn’t harnessed it, hence the rupture. Once the air tank was finished and installed we primed the pump and started it up. A flow test at 5 meters gave us 36LPM. Considering the performance tweaks we know we have to address we will easily hit our target of 40LPM. Happy is not the word. We were stoked!


Next we installed a pressure gauge in the delivery line to see what our maximum delivery pressure was. We topped out at over 70 PSI ( sorry for the imperial measurement but I’m a PSI kind of guy).

This gives us a maximum theoretical pumping height of 49 meters. This means we could actually get up and out of the gully in one lift. Before you get too excited though, it is still to be assessed wether we could match the flow rate of the second stage pump to get the ultimate flow rate we required without the staging. But if its over 4LPM we’re in business!

It was about this time that a loud whooshing sound was heard and the Air tank took off down the creek spraying a jet of water out the back. We had salvage the old damaged valve and put it back together and under the strain of the pressure test it finally gave up it’s life for the greater good. A quick trip to town and a nice new brass valve was soon installed.


This shot shows removing the gauge after the pressure test. The water was shooting at least 15m vertically.

Considering all the adverse factors here, some of which we will shortly correct, I think it’s fair to say that the pump construction and instillation is and will be a resounding success and a vital part of the property’s infrastructure.

On my next post I want to explore some intriguing possibilities for ram pumps. Hint. What set of circumstances would allow you to take water out of a creek or stream and yet increase the volume of water flowing in the creek?

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Soil Food and Health Internship – Did you get what you came for?

Soil Food and Health Internship 2013

Food Forest  focus


Did you get what you came for?


After reading about forest gardens prior to embarking on my internship here at Koanga, I had a lot of theory and much less practical experience.

This forest garden internship has met my expectations in more ways than I thought.  Although, I still had to spend time in the food and seed gardens for part of the week, there was heaps of practical application and time spent immersed in the forest garden and nursery.  Within the 10 weeks, both theory and practical application enriched my understanding of the forest garden design process, especially pertaining to how to meet the nutritional needs of plants and trees within such a system without using chemical fertilizer applications, but using, essentially, companion planting instead.

After learning about how to find heritage seeds and trees, how to propagate by cuttings, get them to root and then grow the cuttings in starter beds, how to store scion wood, root stocks, tree guilds, forest mimicry, grafting, transplanting, nicking, budding, pruning and fertilizing (with minerals) I could grow just about anything I set my heart to!

The forest garden internship definitely provided me with a solid foundation to either take on an already existing project or establish my own project from scratch!

Thank you for all of the valuable information and experiences!


– Cody Kerr